It’s ok. It’s Bosnia (c): insight into Bosnia and Herzegovina

We’re all people, and we all have stereotypes about other people. Personally I consider French people to be arrogant, Georgian people – hospitable, Slovenians – very easy to deal with.

Before I started to travel I knew hardly anything about Bosnia: only that its capital is Sarajevo, and it’s Europe. Sorry, Nevena and Nikola, but at least I knew there is no war anymore. However, when I met several Bosnians during the training courses, I shaped one more opinion: everyone in Bosnia speaks English perfectly well. If only I knew how wrong I was))

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a very special, at times paradoxical country. They have 3 presidents(!) and every 4 years they choose a Serb, Croat and Bosniak to represent (not to rule) the country. The country itself is divided into Republica Srpska and Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and employs 180 000 people in public administration and governmental sector. They have only 3 neighbor countries, but own a coastline of 21 kilometers squeezed between Croatia and…Croatia. They have 3 official languages: Serbian, Croatian (very often it’s simply called Serbo-Croatian because of very slight differences) and Bosnian: I wonder if even Bosnians can tell the difference; and write both in Latin and Cyrillic alphabets.

And yes, there is no war. Bosnians repeat it all the time to foreigners: come on, guys, it finished in 1995, it’s almost 20 years ago for now.

My Bosnian adventure started with crossing the border and trying to buy coffee at Jajce bus station. Trying my best and Croatian ‘kavu s mlijekom, molim Vas’, I got my coffee, Orbit and even a change from 2 euros! Basically, with good negotiating skills you can get a coffee, a chewing gum, WC and a tram ticket for 2 euros only (compare to the Hague: 3 euros for a 5-minute tram trip).

Nikola and Nevena became my guides into Bosnian culture and mentality.

 First of all, you can hardly find a person who speaks English. Looking for a tram stop, I tried to figure out whether tram 1 was going that way. Nothing. No answer. ‘Tramvaj broj jedan, ovdje?’ (usually I use Croarian in the bakery or for a small talk only). Then a small boy aged 9 or 10 told me: ‘Yes’. Happy to see someone I could communicate, I went on: ‘How much does a ticket cost?’ He pretended to be numb and ignored me)) It’s ok, it’s Bosnia.

The education is free. Nikola explained it to me: ‘Yes, it’s free, but there is an entrance fee of 50 euros, and then you pay 20 more plus 10 more, plus…’ And everyone smokes. You see a group of teenagers at the bus station smoking, you see students smoking in the canteen, you see an officer smoking in the ministry! How come? It’s ok, it’s Bosnia.

Ukraine is known for its bribery. It’s true that deputies buy mandates in the government, students buy their grades at university, everyone pays doctors and policemen. But even I, a born Ukrainian, got my portion of amusement here in Bosnia.

- Do we have to buy tickets for the train to get from Sarajevo to Banja Luka?

- Sure, no. You’ll see.

The thing is that train tickets are checked twice: on the territory of Federation and Republica Srpska, thus, you have to take care about both conductors. This is how it’s done. One coming to our compartment: ‘Tickets!’

Us: no tickets, we are students, can you take 6 marks (3 euros) for both?

He: I don’t know if I can (already stretching his hand to take money). Mission completed. Instead of 16 euros each, we spent 8 euros both for 187 km. It’s ok, it’s Bosnia.

Bosnians feel really ironical about their country and themselves. Nevertheless, this Balkan country is not only about bureaucracy, low (compared to Europe) prices, bribery and unjust political system.

They have an amazing capital Sarajevo, rich in history and cultural heritage. On the territory with 150-meter radius you can find a mosque, Catholic and Orthodox churches and Jewish synagogue. They naturally combine Turkish and European cultures: you see Adidas and Mango shops neighboring cheap Turkish jewelry markets, next to Bosnian čevabdžinica there is a rahat-lukum shop, women with covered head feel free at university next to fully made-up chicks on high-heeled shoes.

While staying in Banja Luka together with Nevena we managed to see an impressive youth initiative – ‘Rock symphony’ concert organized by a music academy. Young performers: solo, guitars, violins, a choir, a pianist and a drummer were playing ‘Show must go on’, ‘Skyfall’, ‘The one I used to know’ in a way I was mesmerized (you should believe me, I saw Madonna and Marilyn Manson concerts live). The professor was conducting the orchestra, and a crowd of people who didn’t manage to get tickets, was standing in doors. A truly amazing performance that proves wherever there is a great idea, it can me implemented.

 I’m a coffee maniac, and in this aspect I feel really related to Bosnia. Bosnians can easily drink coffee for an hour adding ‘gossip spice’ to it. Generally, Bosnian coffee is cooked in džezva, served with sugar cubes, rahat lukum and a glass of water with cinnamon and clove, with the main ingredient – gossips. This is another thing they can’t live without.

 And the last thing. If you don’t want to insult Bosnians, remember: burek exists only with meat. No potatoes (it’s krumpiruša), no cheese (it’s sirnica), no zucchini but meat. And in case you start feeling tired of bureks and čivapi (another amazing national meat dish), drop to a good restaurant and you’ll be amazed how a good meal with a glass of good wine in one of the best restaurants of Banja Luka found in a real fortress can cost 11 euros per person.

Indeed, Bosnia and Herzegovina is an amazing country!

Kisses and hugs, Juliya.