Balkan chronicles: Chapter 1. Serbia

While being a tourist is great, being a traveler is even greater. What's a big difference, you may wonder. There is. While in the first case you manage to explore cultural and historical heritage, experience night life and taste local food, in the second case, being lucky enough, you'll get deeper to catch the spirit and find the soul of the country. Our trip is inside out: less museums and tourist traps (hopefully, but never sure) and more locals, contemplation and readiness to experiment.

Belgrade central avenue

Just two days before we left Zagreb to start our Balkan tour I met a Serb on salsa party in the club. The music was so loud that we could barely hear each other, thus, as it turned out later, he understood that Ukrainian girls: 1) drink vodka with lemon; 2) smoke joints; 3) go to church next morning after the club. 'Good start,' - I thought sarcastically. To tell the truth, this was the only Serb I held a conversation for the next few days: we got a ride with a Turk, hanged out with Bosnians and were hosted by a Canadian who invited his French friend to show us around. Answering the question what made them move to Belgrade, both answered in 1 voice: 'They have a soul here'.

2 Ukrainians, US Angel, Canadian and French in the center of Belgrade

It feels home in Serbia: the smell of meat everywhere, and though I heard that Serbs eat meat wrapped in meat and served with meat, I truly enjoyed tasting all these pljeskavice, kobasice and vešalice which added to a positive image I had.

Choosing between bela vešalica and pljescavica

Being absolutely reluctant to vodka, I still wonder how I let a guy on the market talk me into buying a liter of rakija which I had to carry everywhere and could hardly smell. My grandad would, however, strongly disagree with it.

A victim of rakija-seller persuasive skills

Deliberately avoiding tourist bars in Novi Sad we met midnight near a famous fountain behind the church where teenagers prefer to hang out, eavesdropping their gossips and everyday conversations while watching common people. We also managed to drop to a typical kafana to listen to some famous Yugoslavic songs performed live and mixed with Balkan turbofolk and almost suffocating by everyone smoking inside.

And yep, just to mention that surprisingly enough, our Serbian train departed bang on time but going backwards for two hours, it seemed we were riding a broken carousel in a theme park. Not everything at once, though, or as they say: 'polako, polako'.

Always moving 

Finally, lying in Kalemegdan park, we were listening to Balkan beats from the wedding orchestra and quietly singing 'Elaine from Ukraine made me insane', the song of our Canadian host which is telling his first love story with a half-Jewish, half-gypsy Ukrainian girl back to his 18. 

In process: chronicles will not write themselves

Anyway, while being skeptical about the country because of its Balkan spirit and recent history, it turned out to be different. Everyone will find something to meet their demands: culture freaks are recommended to visit Kalemegdan with its Roman well and awesome torture museum, sweettooth gastrolovers will find their way in Blaznavac i Crna Ovca, and eventually, party animals should start booking their tickets to Exit event with Tom Odell, Sigma and Manu Chao coming already in June.

Famous Kalemegdan  towers

“No sé si estoy despierto o tengo los ojos abiertos”

Somebody asked me today to write the blog and I thought this time I should be quite easy to do it.

Things that I have learnt lately:

•             Love and lactose are the same, both taste good and hurt. 
•       After being 12 days travelling (and after 28 years) I finally realize that is not about the country or about the city is always about the people around you, even if you are in shittiest place on earth but you are with whom you want to be…the rest doesn’t really matters.

-          Somebody asked me a few days ago: 

“After all that happened in your life do you still believe in love?”

My answer was the following:

“Last time I said “I love you” the answer was: “I would say the same under difference circumstances”.

So…you tell me,  do I believe?

-          You can be in the same place, doing the same, with the same person…but in difference cities.

It is more than enough learning in this month, is it?

Mid-term crisis, or seeing the world in black in white

It’s already six months that I’m staying in Croatia, and there are six more to go. The things are getting more complicated, and early spring depression is about to come. It seems that there is nothing good anymore about staying in Croatia, speaking English and having a routine life (that I was dreaming about 3 weeks ago). Everything is not easy.

My Schengen visa expired. It means I can’t go to Florence next week in case I feel like visiting the cradle of Botticelli and Fra Angelico, or eating pasta under black cuttlefish sauce. I need to ask for an invitation, undergo the whole visa procedure in the embassy and pay money. Again. To have an access to crossing European borders for other two months.

 Salsa doesn’t bring joy anymore. I found my new passion – salsa. It’s amazing how joyful and relaxing it can be. Imagine that you go to the club and instead of seeing drunk under-aged teenagers stepping on your toes and trying to grab your ass, you swing, laugh and enjoy. Enjoy meeting people who discuss Balkan culture instead of whether to take another vodka shot, enjoy being alcohol-free ‘cause here you don’t need alcohol to have fun, enjoy learning how to dance: something I considered myself to be incapable of) Yet, this week I didn’t feel the flame anymore, and although I believe it’s just tiredness and ‘weather’, it added to the general state of pessimism.

 ‘Human factor’ is upsetting. I’m a result-oriented person who prefers to have everything planned in advance and is not fond of unpleasant surprises. Actually, no one likes surprises unless we are internally ready for them, otherwise they cause stress and discomfort. What happened is people dropping out of the events, people being irresponsible about previous agreements, people changing their plans without prior notification and even feeling the need to notify you. It’s true, shit happens. But when it happens again and again, it becomes really irritating, no matter whether it’s personal or professional life.

 It seems that I’m super non-professional mediocre personality with nothing to offer. Half a year to go seems both long and short, and the question ‘What is next?’ arises again and again. I don’t know what country I wanna go to, what sphere to stay in, what to do next. Should I concentrate on looking for a job, internship, study grant? Should it be Asia or still Europe, the country I’ve been to or a new one? English-speaking, German-speaking or Slavic?

People say that it’s ok not to know what you want from your life at 23, but I feel miserable. Moreover, feeling low, I don’t see opportunities now and rather concentrate on obstacles: Ukrainian nationality, difficulty in getting a working permit, degree in linguistics, having only Russian, Ukrainian and English as working languages. Not impressive for an employer, right? And I will definitely not become a software developer with a European citizenship and 5 working languages in half a year.

Fears, fears, fears. We all have fears of darkness, height, public speaking, staying lonely, getting old, not achieving anything significant in our lives, losing what we have. I have a fear of not finding such friends as I have in Ukraine, of not having enough motivation now in this transit period, not to have someone to drag me out of it.

Yet, there is always a ray of hope. And ‘a half-full glass’ to see. Instead of Florence I can haunt fresh emotions in Montenegro, and my friend is coming at the end of April to make a Balkan (Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia) tour for which I need no visa. Today I will try contemporary dance which will hopefully bring me body-awareness, new contacts and good influence on my salsa skills. People are people, we can’t change them, but can accept the way they are and choose those who we prefer to be surrounded by. And yes, I will definitely find my way after EVS in Croatia. After all, I can always give a shot in becoming a stewardess, return to Ukraine and work with non-formal education for young people or go to China and…whatever.

 Regards, Juliya.

If you're going to try, go all the way. Otherwise, don't even start.

I just realized how worthless is sometimes to have so many goals, as soon as you reach some of them you just have a few more new, so the goal which was important for you five minutes ago doesn’t matter anymore.

So what’s the point of being focus always in a goal? It’d be better, easier and healthier if we just admit that we have fallen prey to failure. Then, when you accept that you are a looser, when you are able to see that the goal was just an excuse to make yourself feel better, only then you are able to keep going just saying “I failed and it’s ok”.

We were told to write this blog to show what we were learning, so here it comes:

This is not a competition, we will be doing mistakes and we will be failing over and over again so there is not a big deal on it. I’ll try to keep my little successes in my mind and go back to them to enjoy them and remember that (sometimes) I won.

The biggest success is always don’t cheat yourself and keep in mind that what today is white could be red tomorrow, it could be brown, it could be yellow or it could even black so…don’t wait until tomorrow to make that call or say what you wanted to say because you never know. If you're going to try, go all the way. Otherwise, don't even start.

I am talking about this with the wisdom given by failure. 

Zagreb – With you I feel like home! Park Maksimir

Somebody asked me this days how is in Zagreb and my answer is "Like home".

There are several places in Zagreb where I feel like home but I keep saying that home is where your heart is. I like to be surrounded by places with a lot of green spaces and if the sun is up is the perfect combination. This weekend was a perfect weather for walking around. 

I discovered Park Maksimir few months ago which is an amazing park..... full of green spaces. Is the oldest public park in Zagreb and it forms part of the city's cultural heritage, is a habitat for many different plant and animal species. 

I have a similar park in my country  and when I came in this park I had that feeling like being home which is the best feeling ever. I took my book, I lied down a blanket and enjoying the sun and the view. 

I met some friends! 

So, why not to rest as well from public works and life's reality, and just take a moment to walk with through a two hundred year long Park Maksimir, and enjoy the greatest masterpiece of garden architecture in Croatia.

Wish you the best, 

Carmen 

NY adventure: 12 days, 7 countries!

My best friend always repeated to me that traveling with a backpack, no plan and no hot shower is not my thing. It’s true that I’d rather prefer a beach and the sea with a full board included to sweating in sneakers when climbing a mountain with 20kg backpack in +30° summer day with no proper bathroom and sunburnt face.

However, it was Christmas Eve, 11.30 in the evening, when I was speaking with my Ukrainian friend who’d just got her visa and was determined to see snow for NY somewhere in Europe. 30 mins later we decided to meet in Munich next day and go to Portugal by hitchhiking with almost no money, and even worse – no plan. And this is how my 2-week adventure started. Challenging, awesome and full of surprises.

Porto, Portugal

 Surprise 1. Italian trains.

It’s crazy. ‘Trenitalia’ offers all kinds of trains: regional ‘slow’ trains that take you on short distances, more expensive IC trains and luxurious Frencciarossa trains that will bring you from Rome to Naples in 70 mins. Knowing a guy who managed to cover all Italy for free, we decided to try our luck as well.

On first 2 connections Bozen – Verona and Verona – Milan our tickets were never checked, and we successfully saved 30 euros each. Our next shot Milan – Genova was not that ‘smooth and easy’: controllers were not moved by our ‘We’re from Ukraine’, ‘Esta guerra in Ucrania’ and ‘Bella ciao’ song, and kicked our asses out of the train. Twice. Still, we managed to reach the city by 3 trains and no expenses.

Christmas Milan

 But when the doors of Frencciarossa train closed after me, I got really scared: controllers are everywhere, no stops between 2 big cities and worst part ever: you’ll not be kicked out, you’ll be taken away your documents…and don’t want to imagine what is next. It ended up with a lot of stress, stories to explain the absence of a ticket, and in total – 280 euros saved. Only on trains. Only in Italy. Still, I think I would prefer hitchhiking to this madness at least in the next several months.

Florence Duomo

 Surprise 2. French hitchhiking

We did hitchhiking in Germany, France and Spain. But French experience is something I can’t but mention: 900 km from Nice to San Sebastian in 1 day, 9 cars and max. waiting time – 5-6 mins.

A guy with a kid stopped, a guy with 3 kids stopped, people who took another way to bring us closer to our destination. We were once left on the highway, stopped by the police and successfully let free, had to speak English, Ann – Spanish with Italian words, use gestures and our charm. And it worked!

San Sebstian reached!

Surprise 3. Monegasque chick

The first thing you notice upon arrival in this paradise of luxury is the smell of good perfume at the exit of the railway station! Not McDonald’s, not sweat, not socks but perfume! The streets are full of Porsche, Bentley and Lamborghini cars, orange trees are planted along the roads and public elevators! take you down from the top of the mountain to the yacht harbor. My friend and I just asked for the way to Prince Albert Palace and got the invitation to see Monaco from the window of the car going 100 km/h on curved roads of it.

Morozova and Monaco 

Monaco is amazingly rich. Here is the tunnel where sports cars can reach up to 300 km/h during Monte-Carlo Gran-prix race. Here is a famous casino right in the centre where mostly Russian, French and Swiss billionaires squander their money. Here is a Christmas market: no souvenirs, gluhwine and sausages. Come on, this is Monaco: a red carpet, pavilions of YSL, Lanvin, McQueen and champagne served in crystal glasses instead of hot wine in paper cups.

Monaco view from the top

 Yes, it’s not the country of the poor. Moneqasques consider French living in Nice –bagmen, can afford buying a small flat in Monaco for at least 2 mln. euros, and support their ‘poor’ with 2,5 mln. flats given by the state. I haven’t seen homeless Moneqasques, but may assume that these are people wearing Louboutin shoes from the last collection, having only 1 pair of Gucci glasses and collecting from the streets ha! champagne bottles decorated with Swarovski crystals. Monaco, indeed, you’re amazing!

Surprise 4. Naples, Italy.

If you’re tired of amazing architecture of Florence, Monaqasque chick, views from Cabo Da Roca or fashionable Milan, welcome to Naples! To the world of garbage bins on the main streets, labyrinths of ‘Spanish quarters’, 3 people riding one moped and trash-mud-dust-ruins everywhere. It really amazed me, even more than Milan and Pisa altogether.

No doubt, the true Naples

  If they have a historic building in the centre, it will be under construction for ages. If you go to smaller streets, you’ll see women yelling at each other from two opposite houses, you’ll be scared to walk and get a bucket of dirty water on your head, or hit by a bike, or get lost between a pile of trash…and a pile of trash. They have a 20-people line near every street-food bar, weird metro, 1 castle to be proud of (people, have you see real castles in your life? Go to Lithuania instead!), and the statue of Jesus Christ which reminds death in a hood.

Naples, Naples! Ah, yeah, there will be a guy to park your car for 3 euros on the pavement (if you first manage to get to the place) and locals who comment all landmarks smth. like: ‘This is an old statue’, ‘Of whom?’ , ‘Who knows?’ Thanks, Captain Obviousity. The one thing you can be sure of – Naples will not let you stay indifferent!

Naples local, this time showing me Pompeii: 'This is Pompeii, you know, this old city...'

It’s not the whole story, of course. There were much more surprises, emotions, people and stories, and all you need for this is to buy a one-way ticket and be open for adventures! 

To be continued...

Kisses and hugs, Juliya.

Dear, January

Is just one month, in one month is gonna be the half of the path, 6 months in Croatia. Time goes extremely fast that’s for sure, so knowing that the main issue is to be able to enjoy the experience as much as possible.

At this point there’s no homesick, even if a friend of mine come to Zagreb and visit me I don’t feel I’m from Zagreb and I’m showing somebody else the city. It is just one more part of this EVS year. I don’t feel anymore like I’m from my hometown, right know is just a memory, a place that in some point I’ll be back there. Actually is a confusing feeling, it is suppose to be my place the best one or the most amazing place on the earth? Because I was born there? If I had born in a different place I would say the same about it so it doesn’t matter at all.

Your pace is where you sleep, it’s not about a flag or a passport.

Anyway, as a quite good song says: “Alma que nunca se deshiela y se queja del calor” I’m just still trying to learn as much as possible from all the people who are surrounding me. I am traveling for the second time in my life to Paris in a few days with some friends and by the end of march I will have this “Balcan experience” which is part of this learning process, so I will be visiting a few countries close to Croatia and this is gonna be enriching experience.

I guess that this will be almost done quite soon and until know I could said that I’ve been able to defeat some fears and I’m dealing a little bit better with myself.